Andrew Shimer never dreamed that he would be back in his hometown sharing his evenings with old and new friends and showing his love of North Tahoe through his skillfully crafted food. Chef Shimer and his wife, Chata Villa, have curated their new venue, Sylva, with a thoughtful nod to the lifestyle of the local population intertwined with the grand expectations of Tahoe’s many visitors. “I think that our community is definitely ready for something a little more interesting and hip, modern, and adventurous,” said Shimer.
Shimer, who grew up in North Tahoe, left for college, then moved to the Bay Area to work with some of its top chefs, earning a name for himself at Aqua and The Waterfront in San Francisco before becoming the executive chef at Oakland’s Mezze. Returning to his roots, Chef Shimer spent over a decade at Christy Hill in Tahoe City. During that time, he met Villa, who was a bartender at The Bridgetender. Born and raised in Peru, Villa started coming to the Tahoe area as a J1. Villa and Shimer married during Covid times. When they found out the space previously occupied by The Pioneer Cocktail Club was available, they decided the time was now or never to do their own thing. They opened Sylva at the end of November.
“We wanted a restaurant we would want to eat at once a week,” the couple said.
Sylva’s seasonal menu draws inspiration from global flavors, including Peruvian dishes, while staying rooted in wood-fired cooking. The dishes are elevated but comfortable, familiar but fresh, and inviting to every sense. The restaurant uses locally sourced ingredients when possible.
“It’s not so much a seasonal menu, it’s more an evolving menu,” said Shimer.” We want diners to wonder, ‘What is Sylva doing this week?’”
Sylva, Latin for “forest,” is a beautifully designed, 68-seat bistro in the middle of Tahoe City. “There is a lounge area with a view onto the water for those just coming in for a glass of wine and a small bite,” said Villa. “The chef’s counter [is] for those who want the interactive experience and the dining area [is] for those larger parties or a special celebration.”
In early April, my husband and I ate in the dining room at a corner table that had a lakeview window. It was a busy Sunday evening and yet we had no trouble communicating while enjoying the meal.
“We wanted you to be able to have the dining experience of your choosing but also feel like you were part of the community,” said Shimer. “We wanted a very social atmosphere.”
In my opinion, they have succeeded. The aesthetics are comforting, the wait staff is knowledgeable and engaging, and the atmosphere is full of excitement and anticipation. Shimer and Villa also make themselves accessible during the evening to chat with the diners, something they feel very passionate about.
We started with the crispy tequenos — four perfectly fried bundles of duck confit and cojita cheese served with a vibrant green aioli verde sauce. Our next bite was a pate, a rich pork-pistachio terrine. The texture was luscious. It was served on a toasted brioche, chevre, and caramelized shallots. To the side were crunch bread and butter pickles and an amazing mustard caviar.
As part of its evolving menu, our next dish had just been added to the menu that evening — two perfectly seared Bristol, Maine, scallops. The curry, coconut broth developed by Sylva’s talented sous chef was bowl- licking delicious, and was served with forged beech mushrooms, bok choy, cipollini onions, pickled chilis, and a crispy rice for texture. The dish was perfection.
Chata then recommended the pan-roasted gnocchi. I must admit, I have never had such light, pillowy gnocchi with a gentle crust on the outside from the pan sear. Four of these delicate pouches were served in a light jus topped with spring peas, morel mushrooms, pea tendrils, an apricot braised duck, and a pressure poached egg. The perfectly tender duck mixing with the yolk running into the jus was just another element of the complex but rustic flavors this dish presented.
Before moving on to desert, we had the charred snap peas. The flavor of the peas sitting atop the roasted poblano aioli sprinkled with preserved lemon shavings, sunflower seeds, and sprouts was a light, inviting addition to the meal.
At the start of our dinner, we chose a bottle of 2020 La Rioja Alta Akutain wine from Spain. It went well with all of our choices. Sylva has a well curated selection of natural and small producer wines along with craft beers.
As we finished our meal, our amazing waiter Asa told us a story about the chocolate croissant bread pudding. Apparently, Chef Shimer traded one of his prize recipe books for the six-ingredient recipe. While we did not order the bread pudding, the table next to us did and they said it was amazing. We opted for the daily-made sorbet, which on that evening was blueberry ginger. It was fresh and tangy, and the perfect ending to the meal. However, Villa had us try the popular curd is the word dessert — a gluten-free almond cake with a silky blood orange curd drizzled over the top. Definitely a dessert I will have again! Not to be out-done, Chef Shimer brought out a dessert from the secret menu, the blueberry ginger sorbet but with foie gras generously shaved over the top. The creamy rich buttery flavor of foie gras atop the cold tanginess of the sorbet was an exciting culinary twist and a delightful way to end our evening.
Shimer continues to push the envelope, cook interactive and approachable food, and create unique flavors from scratch that can’t be found elsewhere. Whether you are coming off the ski hill or looking for a place to celebrate a special occasion, Sylva is the place to make it a memorable experience. “I feel like this restaurant concept was much needed for our community,” he said. “There’s a lot of younger, very food savvy and wine savvy people in our area now.”
From the moment you step in the door, Shimer, Villa, and their skilled staff make you feel like you are part of the community. Chef Shimer’s return home has given North Tahoe a culinary venue that keeps you wanting to come back.
Sylva is open Thursday through Monday from 5 to 9:30 p.m. Learn more at sylvatahoe.com.
