Once upon a time, people feared washing their waterproof hard shells because the white inner layer cracked, crinkled, or peeled off. Well, things have changed, my friends, the industry has improved, and we must treat our waterproof jackets, pants, and gloves with respect. Why spend winter storms drenched and upset because your investment didn’t hold up? If your gear is super old, then perhaps it’s time to upgrade, but if your gear is relatively new and still getting soaked, then I must ask: Do you wash it?
Waterproof membranes entered the market because Bill Gore quit his job in 1959 to pursue the potential of polymer polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). In 1969, his son, Bob, stretched the material and created expanded PTFE (ePTFE), which, when worked under the right conditions, becomes a strong, microporous membrane that we now call GORE-TEX®. The pores of ePTFE membrane are so small, they do not allow water molecules to pass through (waterproofness), but are just large enough to allow vapor to escape (breathability). This discovery propelled the Gore family from being manufacturers of things like wires for NASA and telecommunication cables to the invention of waterproof fabrics. Over the years, they added layers to their membranes and seam protection; they supplied Antarctic expeditions as well as empowered the general consumer. Recently, they introduced GORE-TEX Pro, which uses a new layering process with a natural oleophobic membrane for even better breathability.
GORE-TEX became a household name for outdoor gear, and it wasn’t until recent years that clothing companies dared stray from the master. Now, you find a variety of proprietary waterproof membranes, each competing to be the best at balancing the big three: waterproofness, breathability, and durability.
Regardless of what waterproof membrane a company uses, all hard shells and soft shells are treated with a durable water resistance finishing that causes water to bead and roll off instead of saturating the fabric. When dirt, sunscreen, skin oils, chairlift oils, mustard, beer, or whatever rubs onto your clothes, this DWR finishing clogs, allowing moisture to penetrate the outside fabric. Let’s be clear: you might feel wet and cold, but the waterproof membrane is still doing its job — you’re not actually getting wet — but the cold comes through, and you, poor skier, are pissed.
If you don’t wash your jacket or pants, you’re letting dirt and oil clog the pores of the outer fabric, which then can saturate with water, which hinders breathability. Today’s waterproof pieces are made with two, two and a half, or three layers of fabrics: an outer layer (outside fabric treated with DWR finishing), a middle layer (waterproof membrane), and an inner layer (protective hanging mesh or brushed nylon), that protect the product from abrasion, all of which should be washed and treated the same way. Typically, garments with hanging mesh are more affordable, but heavier in weight. Brushed nylon, or three-layer pieces, are more expensive, but lighter and more versatile. And the quality of trusted brands can usually be determined by the price.
Consider your hard shells to be like a pair of jeans: Sure, you can wear them for a week with no one noticing, but go any longer and they get bagged out, dirty, heavy, smelly. Your ski pants and jacket are the same. Wash them when they’re visibly dirty, smelling of last week’s ski, or if it’s just been a month or so. Before you do anything else, and definitely before you throw your gear into the closet for summer, follow these simple steps:
1. Wash your gear in a washing machine with gentle, non-fragrance, non-bleach detergent. Dr. Bronner’s is nice, or use a technical cleaner from Nikwax or Toko. There’s no drastic difference between them. Just be sure to run the rinse cycle twice to wash out all soap residue and floating dirt particles.
2. Place your hard shell in the dryer. (Eegads! Gasp!) Yes, do it. 20 minutes on medium heat. This step is crucial as it realigns the molecular DWR finishing. After your garments are dry, take them into the shower and run water on them; if the water beads up, your DWR is good. If the water does not bead up, then wet the fabric and add your brand choice of DWR. Drying reactivates DWR if it’s still good. If it’s been worn off, you have to reapply. (Warning: Extreme heat will cause damage, so be sure you know the intensity of your dryer.)
3. Do these steps sound familiar? Perhaps you’ve washed clothing before?
Well done. Now go do a load of laundry! Take care of your gear. For heaven’s sake, wash it. You made an investment so you could weather the outdoors. Clean your clothes before throwing them in the closet so you’re not the chump next October. It’s like neglecting to mount your skis until winter’s already here: Don’t wait until the first storm to know if your jacket is waterproof and breathable. Wash it, love it, and you’ll be ready when the next snow flies.
