As we turned the corner we smelled the smoke of a wood burning stove. We had been ski touring for three to four hours, with overnight packs filled with all kinds of goodies to share with the 10 friends we were going to be bunking with for the night. Relieved to put down my pack, I removed Stella’s new dog pack and checked the place out. I said to myself, I think I could stay here for a while.
The Bradley Hut is a simple A-frame cabin, a ladder on the front of the structure leading to a ‘deck’ (a 2-by-3 foot landing) on the second floor. To the left was a miniature hut, the outhouse, which seemed like a luxury, as I thought we would be burying our…Inside was dark – the window on the north side was buried with snow – but the stove was warm, hot even. Two sturdy tables downstairs held everyone for card games, dinner, and après eating lounging. Upstairs 12 humans and four dogs slept comfortably. There was no need to bring our Thermarest or the 15-below sleeping bags, as there were about 20 simple cot-sized mattresses and the fire kept blazing all night. A steep south-facing bowl provided skiing within a 20-minute hike from the hut, as well as a sled hill for those unafraid of speeding down frozen spring snow.
The following morning we filled up on a hot breakfast: pancakes, coffee, and bacon, lotsa bacon. Our ski back to the car took less than one hour, which made an easy exit for those of us who had to work that day.
The trailhead for the Bradley Hut is located on Highway 89 between the entrance to the dump and Squaw Valley. The approach is a gradual uphill road. The Josephine Crane Bradley Hut was built in the memory of the deceased wife of former Sierra Club President Harold Bradley. It was originally located near Five Lakes Trail off Alpine Meadows Road, but had to be moved and reconstructed once the Granite Chief Wilderness was established. Sierra Club Chair Dick Simpson explained that funding forthe rebuild came from the Sierra Club’s efforts and a $15,000 donation from REI.
A while later, I had a chance to hitch a snowmobile ride to the Ludlow Hut. We approached from the Rubicon/McKinney neighborhood, but it can also be reached from Blackwood Canyon. We crossed two lakes with caution and speed, avoiding creek beds and cruising over puddles. Built in 1955, it is similar to the Bradley Hut, but one can see its maturity. A sign in the hut reads, ‘Ludlow Hut Named for William Ludlow, Jr., Sierra Club member who loved ski touring. Served as 2nd lieutenant with US Army Engineers; killed in Korea at age 23.’
The hut is equipped with two wood burning stoves, and firewood is stacked in the main living space. The Ludlow Hut is close to Richardson Lake, and the summit behind the lodge provides a view of the expansive peaks and valleys of Desolation Wilderness. Five miles on a snowmobile or Jeep gives quick access to the silent and serene hut.
The Peter Grubb Hut was built in the 1930s in memory of an active member of the Sierra Club who died at 18 during a bike trip in Europe. Simpson explained that Peter was the son of a prominent family from San Francisco who funded the two-year building project of the shelter. Simpson added that he met his wife on a ski trip to the Grubb Hut in 1983. This is one of the most well known of the Sierra Club huts, both in its history and popularity of use. Its approach is from Highway 80, west of Truckee. Access is permitted during the winter when snow is present.
According to Herb Holden, former manager of the Clair Tappaan Lodge, the Benson Hut can be accessed in winter by taking the Lincoln Chair at Sugar Bowl over to the Sierra Crest. Sugar Bowl charges $10 for a one-way ride up the lift.
The staff at the Clair Tappaan Lodge tells me that summer access to the Benson Hut is from the Pacific Crest trailhead, east of Sugar Bowl next to the Sugar Bowl Academy. The hike is about six miles south on the Pacific Crest Trail, and the hut lies 300 yards south of the PCT.
Rumors of a haunted Benson Hut have come up over the past 10 to 15 years. When I asked both Holden and Simpson what they had experienced, they explained that the marmots occupying the hut could be misleading the guests. But you will have to go find out for yourself. Ouija Board, anyone?
Each of the Sierra Club Huts in the Donner/Truckee area costs $12 per night per person, and sleeps 10 to 15. Reservations are recommended to guarantee your group’s full use and privacy of the hut during your stay.
The Clair Tappaan Lodge is the Sierra Club’s ‘flagship’ lodge, and offers a great option for those who would rather spend their time in the woods relaxing, not breaking a sweat. The lodge is ‘within walking distance of Donner Pass Road, (old highway 40), near Donner Summit in the town of Norden.’
The Clair Tappaan Lodge is a staffed hotel-style accommodation. By hotel, I mean that there is a cook, dining room, library, ping-pong table and a hot tub. Guests are asked to do a chore during their stay. The Clair Tappaan Lodge also rents cross-country ski gear and snowshoes, and in the summer guests can hike along the Pacific Crest Trail. Cost to stay ranges from $45 to $60 per person per night, depending on the season, with great rates for children and groups.
Next door to the Clair Tappaan Lodge is the Hutchinson Lodge, which offers a more pastoral stay, but is great for larger parties of 20, complete with indoor toilets, showers and a sauna. The Hutchinson Lodge was built by two Hutchinson brothers who owned it for 30 years until 1956, when they donated the Lodge to the Sierra Club. Rates for use of the entire lodge are $150 to $190 (depending on time of year) per night, with a minimum stay of two nights
Inquires, questions and reservations can be made by contacting the knowledgeable and friendly staff at the Clair Tappaan Lodge, PO Box 36, Norden, CA 95724, 530-426-3632 or 800-679-6775.
Interested in getting involved? Over the past years the huts have been at risk of being sold to private parties. If you would like to keep this great resource available for you and future generations, you can donate to the Sierra Club, become a member, or become an active volunteer by joining work parties. To sign up, contact Work Party leader Jim Gannon at 707-525-1052 or Jgannon99@sbcglobal.net.
For updates, news, or more information on huts, lodges, rates and volunteering, check out sierraclub.org.
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