Ryan Salm, a frequent Moonshine Ink contributor, is a traveler, to say the least. With his camera and a backpack, Salm has been to the far reaches of the planet and always comes back with stunning photos to share. I emailed Salm to ask a few questions about his most recent journey to Ethiopia. He had some interesting things to write, but I’m sure he has even more to tell. Attend Salm’s slideshow presentation ‘Travels through Ethiopia: Tales of Sour Bread, Fire Wind, and Kalashnikovs’ at 7 p.m. on Thursday, Dec. 9 at the Sawtooth Ridge Café to hear more. Part of the Alpenglow Winter Film Series, Salm will take viewers ‘into the depths of a country and culture that date back to the time Jesus walked the Earth.’
Moonshine Ink: You traveled to Ethiopia last March. Can you give me an overview of your trip?
Ryan Salm: The trip began in Addis Ababa, the capital, and proceeded as a loop up through the Simien Mountains, into the ancient city of Lalibela, across to the Danakil Depression, which is the lowest point in Africa and one of the hottest places on the planet. [Then I] continued south into the tribal lands of the Lower Omo Valley. Ethiopia is a true glimpse into the past.
MI: Why did you decide to travel to Ethiopia?
RS: That is a really good question. I believe I saw a few photos once in a bookstore and was instantly intrigued. But here is a list of reasons why I chose Ethiopia:
1) The Ethiopian dynasty was established in 1270 and ruled more or less continuously until 1974. The Emperors of Ethiopia claimed descent ultimately from King Solomon. Ethiopia is also the ‘cradle of Homo Sapiens’ in the sense that the earliest specimens of anatomically modern humans, dated to 160,000 years ago, were found in the country.
2) When Africa was divided up by European powers at the Berlin Conference, Ethiopia was one of only two countries that retained its independence and it was one of only four African members of the League of Nations. After a brief period of Italian occupation, Ethiopia became a charter member of the United Nations. When other African nations received their independence following World War II, many of them adopted the colors of Ethiopia’s flag and Addis Ababa became the location of several international organizations focused on Africa. In 1974, the dynasty led by Haile Selassie was overthrown as civil wars intensified. Since then, Ethiopia has seen a variety of governmental systems.
3) Ethiopia has its own national alphabet, its own time system, and calendar, which is seven to eight years behind the Gregorian calendar. It has the largest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Africa.
4) The country is a land of natural contrasts with spectacular waterfalls and volcanic hot springs. Ethiopia has some of Africa’s highest mountains as well as some of the world’s lowest points below sea level. The largest cave in Africa is located in Ethiopia at Sof Omar, and the country’s northernmost area at Dallol is one of the hottest places year-round anywhere on Earth. There are altogether around 80 different ethnic groups in Ethiopia today, with the two largest being the Oromo and the Amhara, both of which speak Afro-Asiatic languages.
5) Ethiopia, which has Africa’s second biggest hydropower potential, is the source of over 85 percent of the water flow in the Nile River. The land contains rich soils, but the country nevertheless underwent a series of famines in the 1980s, which were exacerbated by adverse geopolitical situations and civil wars and resulted in perhaps a million deaths. Slowly, however, the country has begun to recover, and today Ethiopia has the biggest economy in East Africa. The country remains politically fragile with the opposition struggling for democracy and reports of human rights abuses.
MI: Thoughts on Ethiopia as a destination? It’s off the beaten path. What kind of a traveler do you need to be to go there?
RS: I generally seem to choose locations that are off the beaten track. Based on my list of places I have visited in the past, Ethiopia just seemed like the next logical choice. It is way out there in terms of similarities to home. You really need to be patient, love the taste of sour bread, not be a vegetarian, and really want to be there. It was quite an experience.
MI: You take incredible pictures throughout your travels. How is it bringing all that equipment with you? What reactions do you receive after taking people’s photos?
RS: Carrying photography gear has its good and bad moments. For a photographer it is half the reason you travel so you have to have it. The images can capture the experience. Though it kind of sucks when someone steals it.
Usually people love to see how beautiful they are. They smile, give me a high five, or throw a rock in my direction if for some reason they think their beauty does not resonate in the photo.
MI: What’s your next destination?
RS: To be decided.
Info: Alpenglow Sports Winter Film Series, 7 p.m., Thursday, Dec. 9, Sawtooth Ridge Café, 877 North Lake Boulevard, Tahoe City, (530) 583-2880, sawtoothridgecafe.com
